Do you have a Bang and Olufsen BeoCord 1200 reel to reel tape recorder with a faulty take up reel? Maybe it’s spilling tape or judders on playback? This post may help fix the fault with a fairly simple belt change.
I’ve always admired Jacob Jensen’s designs for Bang and Olufsen. His use of the slide rule, echoed in the Beolit 400 / 600 series transistor radio and the Beomaster 1200 amplifier, with the clean lines are iconic. When a colleague Tony mentioned retro B&O and said he had a Beocord 1200 that needed servicing I could not resist the opportunity to see one in action. It proved a challenge to get working but well worth the effort to repair.
The Beocord 1200 has an interesting history. David Bowie, among other 60s musicians, made use of the 1200’s sound on sound function that allowed over dubs to build multiple layers of sound and one or two hits without the need for an expensive studio. As a 70s student I could only afford the cheaper Akai 4000D which, although sounding reasonable, had far less features and no slider controls for easy fading.
This example arrived well packed weighing nearly19Kg. But it’s a heavy beast and a few things had come loose in transit.
First look inside
Removing the 4 slotted screws from the base revealed two pieces of paxolin floating inside. These had become detached from the base and sat below one of the main amplifier boards, see below.
Beocord 1200 inside view
Sometime in its life it had suffered an impact and glue fixing the two boards had detached from the base cover. It was a simple matter to glue them back using PVA. The smaller board has a copper side that faces outwards to make contact with the metal finger pad, I guess as a screen to reduce radio frequency interference. There was no obvious copper screen on the larger piece of paxolin but it prevented anything touching the PCB through the base cover grille.
A single phase AC motor in the centre uses a large cylinder 8uF capacitor to run. Also visible is the bottom of the capstan under the clear plastic cover with the belt driving the take up reel clutch – more about that belt later.
An impact had left another injury which had resulted in a bent PCB board and bracket. This was not just cosmetic – the bent bracket pulled down the edge of the amplifier circuit board which caused one of the slide switches to jamb and would not engage in record mode.
Straightened bracket
Bent PCB bracket
Circuit board and bent bracket
I removed the bracket and using a bench vice corrected the angles so the PCB was held in the right position.
Take up reel belt change
With the base back in place, powering the Beocord up revealed further problems. The take up reel failed to turn properly causing tape to spill when engaging play mode. The tape counter also failed to move. Fast forward and reverse seemed to work well, but these modes were driven by idler rollers not the dreaded belts.
The take up reel drive belt was in place and looked okay so needed a closer inspection to fix the spilling tape on play. Taking the top plate off revealed no clues for the take up problem with the break cord in place. But there was no tape counter belt so that also needed a new one, see how to change the tape counter belt later.
Getting the take up belt off from beneath simply required removal of the three slotted screws holding on the clear plastic cover as shown below. Care is needed to avoid getting grease on the belt from the bottom bearing. I lifted the belt clear from the take up pulley then pushed a loop back through the plastic slot while lifting over the grease. Needs two steady hands.
Take up drive belt
When free the belt showed an obvious stretch from years left in the same position on the smaller drive pulley, see below, the right belt compared with a replacement belt on the left. It could explain the tape spill. My replacement sourced from Italy was a little smaller at 2.5mm thick instead of 3mm.Both had similar diameters at around 100mm for the new and over 105mm for old. I should have found a cone or funnel to check diameters more accurately.
Old and new take up reel belts
Replacing the take up belt seemed to cure the problem. There was still a slight delay in take up when engaging play – see video. This may be normal for a machine this age, I remember the Akai 4000D behaving in a similar way.
Tape counter belt
As there was no original tape counter belt to compare I used one of the main motor drive belts that are slightly thinner and larger diameter to the take up belt. But how is it fitted? It looks easy to slip it over the top platter but there’s a few obstacles in the way. First you need to remove the thin break cord that is attached with screw at the top and spring below.
Beocord 1200 Inside Top Plate removed
Next you need to turn it on one side and using a hex head allen key undo the two grub screws that hold the take up reel pulley in place. Notice there are two grub screws at 90 degrees. You can then lift the top platter clear to loop the new belt over onto the pulley beneath the reel platter. You may be lucky and manage this manoeuvre without lifting the platter but as there’s also a break pad hiding under the platter I found it easier to see what I was doing to save damaging the belt. Keep the belt under tension while pulling the belt over the tape counter pulley. Three hands would help! B&O probably had a jig to help.
When the belt in engaged, hold the platter in place while tightening the take up pulley. Finally replace the break cord and the tape counter should tick again.
Finished Beocord 1200
Some shots of the reassembled tape recorder with and without cover.
BeoCord 1200 assembled
BeoCord 1200 with cover
22/01/2020 at 1:54 pm
Just came across this Radio Retro: found this very interesting thread, however, unless referenced somewhere else, it would be an even more interesting show when the change of the belt(s) “inside”, running over the flywheel, also would be dealt with, thus giving me an opportunity to get rid of the frustration not to be able to enjoy playing with my own BC1200 and BC1600.
22/01/2020 at 8:46 pm
Hey Aad, thanks for your comments. Yes Martin / Dillen on Beoworld forum – has the answer if you buy his belts I think. I looked at the problem with the BC1200 I had and decided the top capstan bearing must lift to thread the belts under somehow. The ‘easy’ way is to cut the belt and use superglue to rejoin. You can try on an older belt that has stretched for practice first. Don’t give up there’s always a way!
30/01/2020 at 3:10 pm
I found a more “easy” way to change/mount the belt(s) from the bronze coupling wheel to the flywheel.
I have pictures to show ( a narrative takes to much comment space) but can I upload them some way or another?
(I wonder how many Radio Retro followers are playing with BC1200/1600’s nowadays)
31/01/2020 at 8:35 pm
Thanks Aad, sounds interesting. The BeoCord post is one of the most visited so sure would be of interest. I’ll send you a DM. Retro Bang and Olufsen still very popular here in UK, many enthusiasts and can pick up kit at boot fairs and local events. Just need the time to restore!
19/11/2021 at 7:47 am
Is it possible I could get a copy of your explanation regarding changing belts on the BC 1200?
I own’d a BC 1200 when it was brand new in the late nineteen-sixties and a few years ago I found another fine well working one again. The counter wasn’t working but apart from that it was intact. Now the take up belt gave up I decided to mount threw new ones, but the two on the upper side are not that easy to mount
02/08/2023 at 10:12 am
Hi there I have the same problem of trying to change the drive belt from the bronze wheel and I can’t seem to find any clues how to do it so I would appreciate some help.
23/09/2020 at 10:13 am
Thank you for this post. I have recently gotten a Beocord 1200 and have a few problems including the belt for the tape counter not being there. So I plan to follow your guide to replace it.
The other big problem I am having is when recording, the left channel on playback the audio is fading up and down. Tapes recorded on other machines playback fine so think the issue is on the record side rather than playback. any suggestions are welcome
23/09/2020 at 3:57 pm
Thanks for your feedback, hope the counter belt change solves it. Try Servisol or another lubricating contact cleaner on the slider / recording level control as it could be tarnished contacts causing the let channel to change level. Are the heads clean?
16/10/2020 at 9:00 pm
Hi Rick, can I ask where you got your replacement belt? I’ve been having a lot of trouble trying to find one
17/10/2020 at 8:05 am
I sourced the belts from an Italian seller via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/registratore_uher – they are still listed https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SET-BELTS-B-O-BEOCORD-1200-REEL-TO-REEL-EXTRA-STRONG-NEW-FACTORY-FRESH/181667186438 but there’s currently a notice saying the seller is away.
You could try a a German seller – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kit-5-fur-B-O-Beocord-1200-Tonband-Tape-Recorder/133537480670
Hope you find some. Regards Rick
17/11/2020 at 3:40 pm
Hi, I have a Beocord 1200 in good working order however the automatic stop at the end of a reel is not working. The lamp is lighting ok and I assume it’s a photo electric sensor? Any help appreciated .
18/11/2020 at 7:41 pm
The manual shows an ORP60, light dependent resistor, that should measure around 60k ohms with the lamp on. You could check the end of the sensor is clean and clear – see http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa1227.htm It’s connected to a simple two transistor (TR29,30) switch which drives a solenoid that trips the play lever. So if it’s not stopping check there’s voltage across the solenoid coil when the lamp on is on and if not trace back to the ORP60 input.There are test voltages shown in the service manual – https://www.manualslib.com/download/985574/Bang-And-Olufsen-Beocord-1200.html
Good luck, hopefully a simple fix. If it’s the sensor, there are many alternative LDRs available if an ORP60 can’t be found.
19/11/2020 at 2:06 pm
Hi Rick,
Thanks very much for that . The photo resistor seems to be open circuit. I have sourced a replacement one as original on line and will replace it, might work. I don’t get any voltage on the solenoid but the new resistor my sort that.
Jim
19/11/2020 at 10:05 pm
Jim, you could try a 56k resistor across ORP60 to check it trips the solenoid. Hope the replacement sorts it.
19/01/2021 at 2:13 pm
Hi there.
My Beocord 1200 is perfect – except that its stuck on the 3 3/4 speed. The 7 1/2 doesn’t work. When switched it just ignores the command and continues at 3 3/4. Any help or information regarding this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
19/01/2021 at 7:45 pm
Hi Dave – according to the manual the tape speed is controlled by switching the motor from 8 pole 750 rpm to 4 pole for 1500 rpm. As your Beocord is stuck on 8 pole I’d apply switch cleaner, such as Servisol super 10, to the row of contacts that switch the motor – see page 30 of the service manual – https://www.manualslib.com/download/985574/Bang-And-Olufsen-Beocord-1200.html. Operate the switch back and forth repeatedly to try and clean the contacts and then switch it on to test. May have to apply the cleaner a few times if the contacts are badly tarnished. This often happens if you’ve kept it on the slow speed leaving the contacts in the other position exposed. Take care not to spray the belts and pulleys if you use a lubricating cleaner. Let us know if this fixes it and if not will think what else to try.
17/10/2021 at 12:38 pm
I have one of these 1200’s with no take up on play mode. Everything else works and it has a full set of new belts. Any suggestions welcome.
18/10/2021 at 8:35 pm
If you are sure the belts are the correct size and not slipping, try checking the friction drive and take up adjustment see p 39 – p42 in the service manual https://www.manualslib.com/download/985574/Bang-And-Olufsen-Beocord-1200.html I had reports of problems with replacement belts failing after a year, so finding good quality replacements of the right thickness is important. Not an easy task.
03/03/2024 at 9:38 am
Ho un beocord 1200 al quale sono riuscito a far ripartire la meccanica cambiando anche una cinghia e inoltre ho sostituito due condensatori elettrolitici livellamento cc; adesso si pone il problema che in uscita non ho nulla all’infuori di fruscii. Comunque il mio beocord non è amplificato.
La scheda finale lato cuffia le tensioni sono giuste.
Chiedo lumi in quale altra parte intervenire.
Grazie
Cordiali saluti
03/03/2024 at 9:05 pm
Firstly, assume you have cleaned the tape head, have tape matt side to heads with stereo recording on the right tracks and cleaned the 1-4 3-2 switch contacts and the VU meters don’t show any movement?
If there’s no audio from either channel on playback I would start by looking for a signal from the tape head and follow through the preamp stages. An oscilloscope helps but you could use another headphone amplifier to listen for audio signals. Checking for correct supply voltages on the headphone stage is good idea but need to check all preamp stages as well.
05/09/2024 at 8:47 pm
good day .
can you tell me why the tape recorder plays the recording more slowly than it should?
05/09/2024 at 10:22 pm
There are many reasons for slow playback. Without more details I can only guess so here are some ideas. 1) Have you tried to playback several recordings or tapes or just one recording on one tape? Need to establish if it’s the recording or playback. 2) Does the slow speed vary or is it constantly slow? If it’s always slow is the speed set correctly? Does a new recording sound slow? If it varies, is it at the start of the tape to towards the end or independent of tape position?
The most likely reasons for slow playback are mechanical faults such as worn drive belts, dirty oily pinch roller or dry motor bearings. Varying speeds or tape position can indicate issue with take up drive again de to belt / friction brake, etc. But electrical faults with the motor or its capacitor can also occur.
08/09/2024 at 6:23 pm
Thanks for the answer!
New belts are installed in the tape recorder. Slowdown of recording is linear, it does not change depending on the filling of the coil. The engine turns easily and when the power off button is turned off, it spins for a longer time. The tapes were recorded on other tape recorders and when played back they just play in slow motion.
Could the engine capacitor be the cause?
Please tell me where it can be bought online?
Thank you!
08/09/2024 at 8:49 pm
So the playback is constantly slow and recorded tapes play back at correct speed on another machine. And the flywheel bearing runs free. Does it run slow on both 9.5 and 19 speeds? Check by measuring the length of a tape as it passes through for 10 seconds at both speed settings. It should measure 95cm and 190cm. Has the machine has not been converted to run on 60Hz? Check by looking at the motor number compared with service manual p75. If you have the 50Hz model running on 50Hz then the 8uF 130v capacitor may need replacing if both speeds are slow. Look for Universal 8uF Microfarad Appliance Motor Start Run Capacitor. Check the working voltage is at least the one fitted. Many modern replacements are available with higher voltage rating which should work fine. Hope you fix it!
21/04/2025 at 7:09 pm
Good evening! The head in my tape recorder burned out, is it possible to buy a new one somewhere?
22/04/2025 at 6:53 am
Replacement parts are sometimes listed on eBay when sellers break up a non working item and sell off the parts. You may get lucky and find a replacement head. Are you sure your head has burned out? If so you need to fix the fault as replacing the head will likely cause the same problem. Capacitor coupling should prevent any DC current flow and stop over heating the winding. Check there’s no DC voltage across the head and follow the wiring / circuit back if so.
22/04/2025 at 5:30 pm
Could a malfunction of the magnetic head cause general problems in the tape recorder? After removing the head, I measured the resistance on all four terminals and didn’t detect any resistance value. Is it likely that all four terminals failed simultaneously? If so, does this indicate that incorrect current was supplied to the head? I’m also wondering if the head could fail during normal tape recorder operation, for example, as a result of setting the recording level too high?
Thank you!
22/04/2025 at 9:02 pm
There should be two windings one for each channel. Each should measure around a few hundred ohms between each pair of terminals. If you’ve unsoldered the terminals with too high temperature or for too long it could have damaged the internal connections. It’s *very* unlikely that both L&R channels fail – much more common for one channel to go high impedance. see Tapeheads for thread on Nakamichi for example – https://www.tapeheads.net/threads/nakamichi-head-failure-rate.52799/ Heads can fail at any time, just like any electronic components age related failure can be due to mechanical or electrical or chemical degradation. You could check there’s no DC current flow by replacing the head windings with two 220Ω resistors and measuring DC voltage across each in playback and record. This will establish if the amplifier or wiring is a possible cause.
09/06/2025 at 2:54 pm
Hi Rick,
I also own one of these beautiful machines. After buying it, I cleaned it properly, greased it slightly and fitted a new belt for the counter because it was not working.
Then it ran for a few months without any problems. I recorded old vinyls and from radio as well.
But from one day to the next, the right reel (take up reel?) fails running propperly causing tape to spill in play/record mode.
The first thing I did was to replace the belt for the take-up reel. No improvement. Then I also replaced the two belts that run from the motor to the flywheel. No improvement after that either.
I tried it without breakarm (below the right turntable) and without the break wire (around the turntable) – no improvment.
The Capstan runs smoothly and at the right speed in play mode as the music runs in the right speed and without problems.
I therefore suspect that there may be something wrong with the clutch – what could be the problem? Any other thoughts?
Are there still adjustment options on the device? In the Service Manual it says on page 41 that a screw D can be adjust the pressure on the clutch?
Many thanks in advance for any hint – I really want to use the recorder again.
Thaks
Jens
09/06/2025 at 4:26 pm
Hello Jens, your Beocord appears to have insufficient take-up spool torque which is causing the overspill. As it’s not due to the break catching I suspect it could be the bearing. You could try running it in play mode without a tape and check how freely the take-up spool turns. Any adjustments really need the spring balance to measure the torque but you could get some idea by adjusting the clutch plus / minus to see the effect. What type of grease did you use? Did you clean the old grease first? If not, the new grease can softened the old thick sludge and increase drag. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.
10/06/2025 at 8:31 am
Hello Rick,
and thank you very much for your immediate reply. Really appreciated.
As far as I can see the take up spool turns freely without a tape but as the spool only slows down for a very short moment it might be that it cannot be seen. I ordered a simple spring balance for measuring purposes.
I cleaned the axis of the spool before I used new grease. I used “normal” multi purpose grease. Someone told me to try silicone oil but I was not sure if this is the right thing in this case.
What I did in the meantime was to add another small white nylon washer (now there are 3 of them) behind the clutch plate (seen from the back). This helped a bit. The spool doesn´t stop so hard as before and when I “play” a bit with the flat black spring on the back above the clutch the behavior of the spool changes towards better but not completely. It slows down for a very short while before it runs again smoothly to slow down again and so on …
Do you mean the screw D (from service manual) the you’re talking about the clutch +/- adjustment? Is it the small slotted screw behind the spool (looking from the front )in the metal chassis of the BC?
Again many thanks for your help
Jens
P.S. Is it possible to upload/send images or small videos somewhere to describe the issues?
10/06/2025 at 12:38 pm
Okay so ruling out the bearing, your Beocord’s fault is most likely due to incorrect friction between the drive plate and take up turntable. There are two friction settings, one to act as a braking force set by the washers and one to drive the take-up spool set by screw D. You need to set the braking force first. By adding the washer I think you’ve reduced this as it’s not stopping so hard. But what you really need is to increase the friction in play mode by adjusting screw D. The service manual shows the settings once you get the spring balance.
12/06/2025 at 1:15 pm
Hello Rick,
I ‘played’ a bit with the screw D – if I turn it very far to the right the torque is lower. If I turn it to the left it is higher – am I correct?
After the spring balance arrived today I tried to measure the torque. I got a reading of approx. 75-80g and if I turn the screw D to the left (approx. 2 full turns) I end up with a maximum of approx 85g (somewhat fluctuating).
I can’t unscrew the screw much further – then I fear the risk of it falling into the body of the machine and I don’t know where it will end up. Or is the screw secured somehow?
Unfortunately, the take-up reel still slows down at irregular intervals. Sometimes more, sometimes less long. At the beginning of playback it works reasonably well for ten seconds or so.
When I look into the running recorder from behind, I can see how the disc with the belt behind the clutch runs evenly in play mode. However, the clutch disc runs unevenly. Could this possibly be due to the clutch itself?
The clutch plate is very, very smooth, the felt on the wheel with the belt looks used but as far as I can see it looks OK. Could it be due to the two parts? Do I have to treat the two parts somehow for improvement?
Is there any other aspect I missed which could be the reason for this behavior?
Sorry to bother you again but I am really keen getting this beauty up and running again.
Regards
Jens
13/06/2025 at 7:41 am
Apologies for delay in responding, WP spam filer problem!
The torque adjustment range seems good and yes you don’t want to unscrew D completely, don’t think it’s captive.
Uneven running is a puzzle. Have you checked the turntable height (page 40)?
14/06/2025 at 10:51 am
I build a gauge to measure the height of the turntable. It shows the correct value for both turntables.
Another thought: As I am using the Beocord hanging on the wall bracket I have to use this two rubbercaps to make sure that the tape reels are running properly. Sometimes these caps have to be pressed on with a little force. Perhaps this has led to something on the clutch being adjusted or changed? Perhaps an additional disk directly behind the spool plate would help?
I‘ll check tomorrow…
15/06/2025 at 6:36 am
From your OP it seems the spooling fault started a few months after your original service so maybe it’s been caused by orientation. I guess you have measured turntable torque while upright with caps in place?
If the playback speed was erratic I’d suspect the replacement belts as I have known these to fail (stretch) some time after being fitted.
16/06/2025 at 11:57 am
Hi Rick,
I checked the hight of the bearing with respect to the top edge of the chassis frame. The hight is 3,4 mm – so this is fine. But the right turntable was a bit too low (approx 3mm only). I dismantled the right turntable and had a look at it. What I found on the axis was one brown washer with some old grease (which I didn’t see the first time), two transparent (nylon?) washers and three white (teflon?) washers. I cleaned all washers as far as I could, added one nylon washer put some sewing machine oil on the axis and installed the turntable again.
Then I treated the felt disc of the clutch with a brass brush to make it more grippy and put everything together again.
Then I measured the torque while the machine is lying. The torque was now better than before -> 85-95g
When I started the machine it runs perfectly fine … for a bit more than an hour … then the problem started again 🙁
But I think I am much closer to solve the issue than before.
I assume I have to:
a) clean the axis of the turntable, the washers and the bearing more properly than I did before
b) grease the parts again
c) give the clutch more grip
May be you can help me with some advice concerning the following:
a) How to clean the parts properly? With mineral spirits or Isopropanol? Or cold degreaser like e.g. from Ballistol? What do you use?
b) Do you have recommendation which grease I should use? I read something about Molykote BR-2 Plus? Or should I use only oil for the axis/bearing?
c) Is there any other method than the brass brush to give the clutch more grip? Do I have to treat the smooth plate somehow with some liquid or so?
Again many thanks in advance for your patience and support.
Jens
16/06/2025 at 5:40 pm
Well done for persisting, I think you are on the right track! See p71 in the SM for lubrication. The molybdenum grease is only used on the brake pads. The turntable felt must be grease free and cleaned with benzene but you may want a safer eco friendly alternative. I’ve used IPA or an oil free white spirit and dry well.
The plates should be smooth – the required friction is applied by the felt pad and the distance between. By roughening the pads you are effectively reducing the distance until they wear flat again which I suspect is why the problem reoccurs. Try to adjust the gap so there’s more friction. Would be useful to check the torque when horizontal and vertical. I expect slightly more torque is required when vertical as gravity will act down on the tape as it travels up the take up reel.
17/06/2025 at 7:33 am
Oh – I should have read the manual more carefully Sorry!
I searched the internet for Oilit and Beacon Q, but couldn’t find anything suitable. I assume the products no longer exist after 50 years. I even could not if it is oil or grease. What could I use instead the both products? I want to avoid to use wrong lubricants and make it worse.
17/06/2025 at 11:38 am
Easy to miss, my eye glaze over after a few pages let alone 102! I tend to use a light 3-in-1 oil that’s widely available in the UK. But take a look at what’s suggested for Revox & Studer https://nagravox.com/products/revox-studer-a77-pr99-b77-a700-c270-b67-a80-a810-universal-lubricant-oil-kit to get an idea. Each country a favourite.
23/06/2025 at 11:11 am
Hi Rick,
After I cleaned and oiled everything around the clutch again at the weekend, every part runs smoothly but there was no improvement concerning the take-up reel.
I spent hours with try and error and then I pulled and pushed a little on the clutch with the felt cover and suddenly the rear disc on which the drive belt runs gave way and slipped backwards a little (see pictures). On further testing, I noticed that when I pulled the disc back to its original position towards me, it engaged with a small jerk. The clutch can then engage properly and the takeup spool runs properly for a while. After a while, however, the same problem occurs again. Apparently the disc with the felt has slipped back a little and there is a lack of friction so that the spool runs smoothly and evenly.
1. is it normal that the disc with the felt can come loose and slip backwards (is this part of the functionality of the clutch) – or did I broke something?
2. if not, what is the best way to fix it?
Again thanks for your patience and support.
Jens
P.S. I uploaded pictures in the Beoworldforum https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocord-1200-right-reel-does-not-run-continuously/#post-66604
23/06/2025 at 8:04 pm
Interesting behaviour. I don’t recall seeing the felt coming loose – I thought one side was bonded to either the driving plate or pulley but it’s been a while since I looked – most friction couplers use one side only. I don’t have a 1200 to hand to check. Hopefully someone on Beoworld forum will know.
28/06/2025 at 12:25 pm
Now that I am pretty sure that I have found the cause, I have taken a closer look at the belt pulley. There are notches on the inside edge (see detailed photo on Beoworld). In my opinion, these have been driven in there so that the outer ring with the felt sits firmly on the bearing.
I therefore decided to push the outer ring slightly backwards, apply 2-3 drops of glue to the outside of the bearing and then pull the pulley forwards so that it is fixed in place.
Then I readjusted the friction again (approx. 95-100g) and since then the device has been running perfectly again! I hope the friction is not too high now!
Pleasant side effect: The winding of the tape is now much evenly and tighter than before.
Rick! Thank you very much for your patience and support. Without your help an motivation I wouldn´t have come so far!!
28/06/2025 at 1:06 pm
Excellent news Jens, thanks for letting us know. Let’s hope it continues to play well – it’s good to listen to analog tape sound again. Probably best to see how it runs in before but if the friction remains too high, maybe a shim washer can be added to increase the gap slightly?
29/06/2025 at 9:08 am
Now that the clutch has been repaired, I was able to adjust the friction to 85g with screw D without any problems. One big learning of this thread.
Yes, it’s so nice to hear the analogue tapes. But what I also really love is to watch the device while listening to the music, how the reels turn slowly and you hear from the device itself … nothing!
Simply perfect!
Next up is the repair of a U70 headphone, which I think goes very well with the tape machine 😉
29/06/2025 at 3:03 pm
Perfect, sure will be useful to other Beocorders. Good luck with the U70s. I use Beoplay H4s for testing which can plug-in along with BT for mobile use.